Okay, a little late but it took a lot of time to put everything down in an understandable (I hope) format with pictures. Here are the step by step plans for building the PVC Chicken Tractor Row Cultivator.

 

I kept better track of the supplies needed to build the PVC Chicken Cultivator, so I am able to give a materials list and even general building directions. I build working towards a general design in my mind without plans, and adjust as I go. So writing it down in a step by step order isn’t in my nature. If something isn’t clear let me know and I will try to rephrase or explain the step better.

The bottom frame is made from 1 1/4″ conduit and the top wire frame is made from 1/2″ conduit. I used the vinyl bathroom wall cover for the coop. I also used 2″ PVC to make the water tube.

 

 

 

 

Here is a list of materials needed:

 

 

PVC Supplies:

5x 1/2″ PVC Conduit sticks (10′)

 

 

 

 

 

8x 1/2″ T’s

 

 

 

 

 

 

2x 1/2″ Corner three ways

 

 

 

 

 

 

4x 1/2″ Elbows

 

 

 

 

 

 

3x 1 1/4″ PVC Sticks (10′)

 

 

 

 

 

4x 1 1/4″ Elbows

 

 

 

 

 

 

Other Materials:

1x 4×8 vinyl bathroom wall sheet

 

 

 

150x wire holders

 

 

 

 

 

 

150x self taping screws (3/4″)

 

 

 

 

 

100x zip ties long enough to go around 1/2″ pipe

 

 

 

 

 

50x hog rings or wire, less if you buy wider chicken wire.

 

 

 

 

 

2x hinges

 

 

 

 

 

 

2x eyes

 

 

 

 

 

carabiner clip

 

 

 

 

 

wire

 

 

 

 

 

10′ rope

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chicken Wire

 

 

 

 

 

 

I believe in building to suite your needs, and you may want to change the way I have built the Chicken Cultivator. It is easy to adjust the length or width to match the way you garden or farm. Some changes I recommend are adding an access door to add or remove chickens, probably the best place is right by the coop, and adding a pull rope to the back of the tractor.

Here is a list of cuts to make if you build it the same dimensions as I did:

1/2″   PVC Pipe Cuts:

12x    30″ pieces for wire cage frame

4x    1 1/2″ pieces for wire cage Frame T connectors

2x    10″ pieces for the feed door sides

1x    12 1/2″ piece for the feed door top

1x    18 1/4″ piece for the feed door bottom

5x     19″ pieces for the top wire cage support

2x     26 1/4″ for feed dish support and coop bottom support

1x  15 1/4″ Top frame support for feed door.

 

These may need to be adjusted depending on your width.

 

 1 1/4″ PVC Pipe cuts:

Cut the bell off the end of your 1 1/4″ sticks if they come with a belled end. Then cut two pieces for the ends that determine your width. This can be adjusted to fit between whatever width you plant your rows. When cutting the end pieces remember to take into account the elbow when determining your width.

Water Tube Supplies:

1x 2″ Pipe

 

 

 

 

 

2x    2″ Elbows

 

 

 

 

2x    2″ cap

 

 

 

 

 

water nipple

 

 

 

 

 

 

• Tools:

 

• 
• Something to cut the PVC pipe, a hacksaw or cutoff saw.

• 
• PVC Glue, cleaner and primer.

 

• 
• A drill.

 

• 
• Drill bits and screw bit.

 

 

• 
• Something to cut the excess ends of zip ties, and a knife for cutting the vinyl sheets.

 

Putting Everything Together:

You will use the 1 1/2″ long pieces of 1/2″ PVC to glue two 1/2″ T’s together at a 90 degree angle. You then glue the 30″ lengths of 1/2″ pvc into these T’s to make a V.

 Glue two pairs of the 30″ lengths of PVC to the 1/2″ corner Y pieces. These will be for the ends of the Chicken Cultivator.

Glue the 1 1/4″ bottom framework together.

 

Drill Small holes along the bottom of the 1 1/4″ framework for drainage. Drill holes into the 1 1/4″ elbows for the end of the chicken wire support framework. Drill evenly spaced holes every two foot down each side of the 1 1/4″ framework starting at the elbows to mount the chicken wire support framework. I use a 7/8 paddle bit to drill these holes, you might practice on some of the excess 1 1/4″ PVC as it takes a little experience to get a nice hole. I also drill a small hole on the front 1 1/4″ elbow to mount my pull rope to.

 

 

The 1/2″ V’s built are then inserted into the 1 1/4″ bottom framework. The 19″ pieces of PVC are to connect these V’s together and form the backbone of the chicken wire support framework. This completes the bare framework of the PVC Chicken Tractor Cultivator.

The 26 1/4″ cross pieces need to have the ends cut lengthwise so they can rest on the 1 1/4″ bottom framework. These are used for the coop front and the feed bowl shelf. Screw the ends to the 1 1/4″ bottom framework. I used a feed bowl to judge the distance needed from the front. For the Coop I mounted it just ahead of the V wire support framework. Cut chicken wire to the correct size and use the wire clips and the self taping screws to hold the chicken wire to the frame. By building a shelf for the food bowl it will stay put, and come with the Chicken Cultivator when it is moved.

When the shelf is complete I used wire to build a net to keep the chickens off the feed bowl shelf. You want the openings to be big enough for the chickens to get their heads to the bowls, but not large enough for them to be able to fit through. This keeps the feed bowls and feed clean, and is better for you and the chickens. I usually use garden fence, but didn’t have any while building the Cultivator. So if you have the money buying a short length of garden fence or similar fencing would be less work. For roosters you may need to make the openings on purchased fence larger, so they can fit their combs through to the feed.

The Feed door is pretty straight forward. It has to be bent with some force, so be prepared to clamp it after gluing. You need the feed door to be in a triangle shape to fit the front of the coop, getting it into this shape takes some force so it will try to pull free while gluing it together. Cover the door in chicken wire and attach the bottom to the 1 1/4″ frame with the hinges.

 

On the feed door frame I cut a triangle out of the bathroom vinyl and screw it to the back of the door frame. This keeps the door from swinging in, and strengthens the framework.

 

I use a caribiner clip and two eyes to keep the feed door closed. I also use a short length of twine to tie the caribiner clip to the front of the chicken tractor so my wife won’t lose the clip.

Now you can cover the tractor in chicken wire. I use zip ties to hold the chicken wire to the 1/2″ framework and secure the bottom with wire holders drilled into the 1 1/4″ frame with self tapping screws. For the front I weave the chicken wire together. It makes a seamless transition and is very strong, but does take some time to do.

 

Where one run of chicken wire ends and another begins I use hog rings to clip the two runs of chicken wire together. This makes sure something cannot go between the chicken wire and get inside.

 

Before you run the chicken wire all the way to the back attach the water tube and build the front and back of the coop. To build the front of the coop I cut two strips of vinyl that were 27″ long and went from 8″ wide on one end to 4″ wide at the other. I screwed these to the frame and trimmed the bottom edge. I then cut a square of vinyl that had a half circle cut at the top to fit around the water tube. I then bolted the square to the strips. You could also use a solid piece, but I had the scraps and decided to use them.

 

I ran the chicken wire to just inside the coop, you could run it all the way across as well. Once inside the coop I used wire holders to secure it to the 1/2″ PVC frame.

 

For the back part of the coop I screwed a large piece of vinyl to the frame and used a knife to trim it to size. You could also trace the shape and cut it out before screwing it down. When screwed down I cut a hole to place the water tube through, and then mounted the water tube.

I then covered the coop with the vinyl and screwed it on both edges and the bottom of both sides.

 

For the coop I use vinyl bathroom wall panels. These are pretty easy to cut, easy to clean and are very durable. I used the old roof panel from the Original Chicken Tractor for this Cultivator, it was eight years old when it was removed from the Original Chicken Tractor when it was being remodeled into a rabbit tractor and chick house. You can also use siding, roofing tin, or other materials.

 

Tube Waterer

The tube waterer is very easy to build, and works well. Cut the main pipe long enough to go through the coop and out the back. Glue the elbow to drop down to the nipple water cap. Cut a length of pipe to go from the down elbow to the cap with the water nipple. The length of this section of pipe will depend on the height of your chickens, I like the nipple waterer to be about the same height as their head. Drill a hole in the cap to screw in the nipple waterer and glue these sections together. Mount the waterer to the frame with the main tube sticking out the back. Glue the other elbow to the tube sticking out the coop pointing it up. You can then cut a length of pipe for the water reservoir that can use a cap as a lid.

I tried to explain everything in an easy to follow format with plenty of pictures. I hope to build a couple more of these this spring to be used in the garden, and will follow my own guidelines to troubleshoot the directions and improve them.